Finding Heaven in Northern Irelands Fermanagh Lakelands
Finding Heaven in Northern Irelands Fermanagh Lakelands
Seeking serenity? You’ll find it amidst these inland waterways, islands, and uplands
When my friend Margie asked me to join her on a trip to the Emerald Island, I pressed for details. As soon as she mentioned Northern Ireland’s Fermanagh Lakelands, I said yes. While I’ve dipsey-doodled Ireland’s western coast, diving into the Wild Atlantic Way’s highlights and wading through its secrets, and I’ve time-traveled through many of the prehistoric sites peppering Ireland’s Ancient East, I longed to visit this lake-splashed region framed with mountains and rich in farmlands.
Margie had arranged for us to visit her friend Noel McMeel, one of Ireland’s top chefs (he’s cooked for Barack Obama and Paul McCartney) and then Executive Head Chef at the Lough Erne Resort in Enniskillen. Besides fishing, the lures of this five-star hotel located on a 600-acre peninsula jutting into Lower Lough Erne include two championship golf courses, one designed by Nick Faldo, a Thai spa, and one of Northern Ireland’s best fine dining restaurants, along with all the kit and caboodle one would expect. But we wanted more than a fancy resort; we wanted to experience what made this region special, and McMeel was happy to oblige.
“I love this area because of the vast amount of nature. It’s the pure simplicity of what life is all about,” McMeel cooed. “More people who come to Ireland should come to places like this, and certainly to the Fermanagh Lakelands. Why? Because it’s peaceful. Going out on the lake and to the islands is the most amazing experience ever.”
Cruising Lower Lough Erne
McMeel had booked a private Lower Loche Erne tour with Barry Flanagan aboard the Erne Water Taxi. The U.K.’s third-largest lake, Lough Erne, comprises 12-mile-long Upper Lough Erne and 18-mile-long Lower Lough Erne. A 10-mile section of the River Erne links the two and flows through Enniskillen, Fermanagh County’s largest town. Eventually, the river flows into the Atlantic in Donegal. Along the waterway, anglers cast for pike, perch, roach, salmon, rudd, bream, and brown trout
“They say there is an island for every day of the year, and there’s one for the pigs, one for the cows, and another for the sheep,” McMeel said. Sure enough, on one island, we saw a hairy, horned cow munching nonchalantly in the grass. According to Flanagan, the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds protects many islands, and cows don’t threaten the endangered curlew nesting here. McMeel, whose passion for local ingredients has driven his career, added that islands in the upper lough support the rare pigs raised by Enniskillen butcher Pat O’Doherty for his famed Fermanagh Black Bacon.
“While locals say there are islands for every day, there are actually 154 islands in the lake,” Flanagan said. Perhaps the most well-known is Devenish Island, site of a monastic site founded by Saint Molaise in the 6th century. Spread out on an open grassy site are a beautifully preserved round tower and the ruins of St. Molaise Church, a small oratory, both dating from the 12th century and adorned with Romanesque decoration. Also on the grounds are a 15th-century Augustinian priory’s ruins and a magnificent 15th-century high cross. The island attracted pilgrims and parishioners until the 17th century. Even in passing, I sensed its peacefulness, serenity, and spirituality. I longed to spend time on the island, and seeing kayakers paddling the river, I knew I wanted to return via that mode to enhance the quietude.
McMeel broke into my dreams by pointing to flat-topped Cuilcagh Mountain, appearing briefly during a break in the clouds. Known for its stairway to heaven, it’s a fitting backdrop for Devenish Island. The stairway, he explained, is part of the Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail, which protects a fragile blanket bog. “The views are outstanding; it’s so worth the effort,” he said, and I made another mental note to return for the hike (after getting in shape for the 450 steps).
Enniskillen is the only island town in Ireland, Flanagan explained as we passed through a lock. He pointed out the Enniskillen Royal Grammar School, noting that Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett attended it when it was known as the Portora Royal School. “Oscar Wilde was Wilde by name and wild by nature. Teachers feared him,” he said, adding that despite many trips to the headmaster’s office, Wilde still earned a place on the school’s wall of honor.
From the lakes to the uplands
Back at the dock, we hopped into McMeel’s car, exited the resort, and drove northward along the A46 before branching off on byways to our destination: the 7-mile Lough Navar Forest Scenic Drive. Lough Navar’s primarily coniferous forest, combined with the Carrigan, Big Dog, Conagher, and Ballintempo forests, forms the largest continuous forest in Northern Ireland, covering more than 21,000 acres. The scenic loop is within the Marble Arch Caves UNESCO Geopark, which straddles Ireland and Northern Ireland and has a geologic history dating back 895 million years.
The Navar Forest Scenic Drive ebbs and flows with the mountain’s contours as it winds to the summit’s Cliffs of Magho Viewpoint. We stopped en route to ogle the Aghameelan Viewpoint’s easy-on-the-eyes vista over the rural, glacial-shaped West Fermanagh countryside. With McMeel’s help and interpretive signage, we identified Lower Lough Erne, Lough Sunnahone, Topped Mountain, Derrygonnelly, Knockninny, Carrick Lough, Belmore Mountain, Doagh Lough, and Knockmore Cliff. Another sign pointed to the Blackslee Waterfall hike, and I added that to my growing list for a return visit.
If the Aghameelan viewpoint was grand, the Magho Viewpoint is dramatic, if not stunning. It tops a 5.5-mile limestone escarpment rising nearly 1,000 feet above the valley floor. From here, I began to comprehend Lower Lough Erne’s water-water-everywhere expanse. McMeel pointed to the islands of Lower Lough Erne and then identified the broader viewshed. “Look west, that’s the ocean and Donegal, and to the east, Lough Erne Resort is right around the corner.”
Seeing my smile as I absorbed the immensity of the view over the Fermanagh Lakelands’ natural glories, McMeel said: “Simplify your life because it’s worthwhile, and treat yourself.” I wished we had time to stay for sunset, which I imagined must be spectacular, but it was time for the chef to return to the kitchen. Once again, I thought: next time.
When I treat myself to another visit, I’ll linger longer to explore an island or two, paddle the waterways, and hike the trails. But maybe I’ll skip the Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail. There’s no point in climbing the stairway to heaven when you’re already there.
Hilary Nangle
I have three passions in life: Traveling and chocolate. I guess writing would be my third passion. And cheese, oh yeah, artisan-crafted and farmstead cheeses. Did I mention lobster? What can I say, I’m a passionate kinda gal. You can find more of my tips for traveling through the world.
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